Leaving Yangon, we head northwest to Bagan in the center of Myanmar.  Bagan is not the bustling city we found in Yangon--this is an ancient land of over 10,000 temples.  Actually there are approximately 1000 stupas (structures usually containing a Buddhist relic) , 10,000 temples (structures that can be entered to pray) and 3,000 monasteries--and we'll see many of them by car, horse cart, bike and by even air (when we are lucky enough to hit one day of clear dawn weather for a balloon ride).  The first temple we come upon sits overgrown, among ladies harvesting sesame plants. Ancient Temple among Sesame PlantsOur first stop was an ancient, overgrown temple in a field with women harvesting sesame plants.

On the way to our hotel we are introduced to real-life Bagan--as a farmer plows a field with an ox, all framed against an ancient pagoda. Spectacular! Plowing a Field in BaganAgainst a backdrop of 10th century temples, a farmer pows a field, Bagan-style, while his father looks on.

Across the road we see our first "gas station" aka plastic bottles filled with petrol.  Where the main mode of transportation is the motor bike, that's all they need in most areas.   Gas Station in BagonA gas station outside Bagan consists of old drink bottles filled with gas. Since the country depends on motor bikes, these small fuel stations dot the cities and countryside.

And the motor bikes haul an amazing amount of goods.  Motor Bike in BaganMotor bikes are the main for of transportation and haul most of their goods.

Not all the pagodas are the old sandstone.  Some, like the huge Shwe Zi Gon Pagoda, are covered in gold-leaf.  I actually prefer the sandstone ones in the countryside... Shwe Zi Gon Pagoda-BaganShwe Zi Gon Pagoda is from the 1100's. It is a circular gold-leaf stupa surrounded by shrines.

Three huge bells hang at the back of the temple grounds.  Following our guide's suggestion, we strike the bells three times using a small log, chanting, "Badu, Badu, Badu."  The bells have a strong sound that reverberates through the body.  Very cool.

Next we travel to the brilliant sights at the open-air market.   There are brightly colored fruits and vegetables...

Bagon Outdoor MarketColors explode at the Bagan market

A woman butcher sits barefoot among the meat she is selling... Barefoot Butcher in Bagan MarketWoman sits barefoot among meat in her butchery stall at the Bagan market

A man mixes tea leaves that will be used to make the traditional green tea salad...

Green Tea Leaves- Bagan MarketMan preparing green tea leaves for the green tea salad

Along with other interesting-and aromatic-items like this HUGE bucket of fermented fish paste.  It smelled pretty much like you think it might....

Fish Paste in the Bagan MarketThis huge bucket of fermented fish paste smelled about like you would imagine...

Artfully displayed Betel leaves are sold here.  They are commonly chewed by manual workers--they are folded around a dab of caustic calcium hydroxide and some tobacco, then sold as a folded packet.  It's a  stimulant and helps overcome thirst for those who must work hard all day.  Other minor side effects are it turns teeth a disgusting brown and causes serious kidney problems leading to death.   Betel Leaves in a Bagon MarketBetel leaves are often chewed by manual workers--mixed with the caustic calcium hydroxide and some tobacco, it is a stimulant and helps overcome thirst. It also turns teeth a disgusting brown and caused serious health problems leading to death.

Leaving the city we travel to the banks of the Irrawaddy River for a traditional lunch at the Sunset Garden restaurant.  We'll actually get on the river tomorrow! Sunset Garden Restaurant on the Irrawaddy River-BaganOur first meal in Bagan was at the Sunset Garden--magnificent view of the Irrawadddy with the pots echoing the path of the river.

Then we're off to more huge pagodas and buddhas that I can count.  This plaster and brick Ananda Phaya Pagoda is magnificent. BagonAnanda Phaya Pagoda-Bagan

And inside are huge Buddhas including this one that looks solemn when you stand directly underneath it... Solemn Buddha Pose at Ananda Phaya Pagoda -BaganThis Buddha has a solemn look when you are right beneath it

The same Buddha has a big grin as you walk away.  Quite amazing. Smiling Buddha Pose at Ananda Phaya Pagoda -BaganThe Buddha changes from a solemn pose to a smiling face as you walkaway from the statue

Throughout Bagan, the people crossing our paths are excited to meet us--we are very comfortable here.  And the people seem to dote on their children.  This boy was the child of the lady who rents bikes across from our hotel.  Oh yea--this child even has an electronic tablet.  The 21st century joins temples from the 9th century. Child in BaganThe people of Myanmar seem to dote on their children. This was the child of the lady who rented bikes in Began. Oh yea--this child even has an electronic tablet. The 21st century joins temples from the 9th century.

We see no scroungy dogs or cats, no mistreated horses or ox here.  These oxen and carts are decorated to carry the young monks--and tourists.  These were on their way to a full moon sunset at a nearby temple. Bullock Carts Decorated for Festival- BaganBullock Carts Decorated for Festivals- Bagan

Climbing steps to watch a sunset can be interesting.  The steps are old and crumbling.  But even a greater challenge is, because they are hand made, they are different heights, some almost up to my knees.  Out of respect, visitors take off shoes and wear pants or skirt below the knee--and no tank tops here! Climbing Bagan Temple Steps at SunsetClimbing steep and crumbling ancient temple steps can be a challenge. Luckily, the hand rails are well anchored because we use them to haul ourselves to the top and steady ourselves on the way down.

The view from the top is worth the climb--truly breathtaking.   Climbing a Bagan Temple at SunsetPeople climb temples at sunset. As the sun goes down, the Bagan Plain, dotted with temples, can be a mystical experience.

It looks like a movie set.  The greens almost fluoresce and there are hundreds of pagodas in all directions. The Irrawaddy River is at the horizon. Sunset over the Bagan Plain from the Top of a TempleLooking toward the Irrawaddy from the top of a temple is mesmerizing as the sun sets.

Back down on mortal earth, some Kayan weavers from the Mandalay region are in the courtyard.  They come for tourists, like us.  Tracing their history to the Mongols in 700 AD, these elders still have the brass neck rings they have worn since childhood.  They have difficulty removing them--they have few working neck muscles.   Kayan Weavers with Neck RingsAfter climbing a temple at sunset, we return to mortal earth. Some Kayan weavers from the north have come for the tourists. Tracing their history to Mongolia in the 700 AD, these elders still have the brass wire neck rings they have worn since childhood. They have difficulty removing them--they have few working neck muscles.

The next morning we set out to explore more of the area and begin at the Old Bagan Gate. Horse Cart at the Ancient Bagan GateA horse cart at the ancient Bagon Gate

We meet a family from Mandalay visiting our first temple. Their busy little boy stopped, just for a second, to pose for a quite picture. Boy at Sulamani Pagoda-BaganA child, visiting the Sulamani Pagoda with his family, briefly poses before tearing off-all boy.

Traveling on, we pass young boys in their initial monk-training.  Boys, and some girls, go through 3-6 week monk inductions when school is not in session.  They may choose to become monks in their late teens and can choose to go back to their regular life at any time, with no stigma.   Young Monks Walk near the Sulamani PagodaYoung monks walk among the Bagan temples

The close of this day is amazing.  We take to a sampan on the Irrawaddy at sunset. Sunset on the Irrawaddy River- BaganWe had a magical sunset on Irrawaddy as we rode to our sandbar dinner

And have a traditional dinner on a sandbar--this spot is under water during the rainy season.  All quite magical. Sand Bar Dinner on the Irrawaddy RiverWe had a private dinner served on a sandbar ij the middle of the Irrawaddy River.

Morning comes very early--we're up at 0430 today for a dawn balloon ride over Bagan.  We are very lucky.  The trip was filled yesterday and our last two days it rained in the morning, canceling the sunrise lift-offs.  Can't imagine having missed this spectacular adventure! Balloons over a Bagan TemplesDawn hot air balloon ride over a Bagan temples

Looking toward the Irrawaddy, we get a true birds-eye view.  Beautiful doesn't even begin to describe it. Balloons over the Irrawaddy-BaganAs dawn breaks, we capture balloons over the Irrawaddy and the magnificent temples on the Bagan Plain.

After lunch, we take horse carts to a festival celebrating then end of the rainy season, Bagan Festival

Then off to a quiet pagoda to watch the sunset. Carriage Ride among the TemplesCarriage ride, Festival of Lights Parade, Pagoda at dusk

At the top, bathed in the evening sun, we see a beehive that looks like chainmaille. Bees in a Sunset PagodaWe find a chain of bees hanging from the top of a temple during a sunset carriage ride.

Even the ride back to the hotel at dusk was pretty spectacular.

Sunset carriage ride-Bagan PlainSunset carriage ride sunset pagoda, sunrise bike ride pagoda

The sunset filters against a full moon in magical pink-fingered rays. Sunset Moon over Bagan PagodasThe carriage ride ended with the moon rising over a lighted pagodas amid sunset striations.

Our last day in Bagan, the town prepares for the Festival of Light celebration.  Young monks hop off their bus to participate.  The town revs up for a party.  We'll even have fireworks with our dinner.... Young Monks in BeganOur last day in Bagan, the town prepares for the Festival of Light celebration. Young monks hop off their bus to participate. The town revs up for a party. We'll even have fireworks with our dinner....

And we begin biking Bagan before breakfast to beat the heat. Biking BaganOne morning we rent bicycles and ride to explore deserted temples

We make it to the top of our last pagoda. Early Morning on Top of a Bagan PagodaIn the morning light as we look to the Irrawaddy, the fields take on a fluorescent glow from the top of a pagoda.

Another careful  "trip" down

We used the hand rails to climb up--and down--the steep, uneven, crumbling stairs leading to the top of a temple in Bagan

We visit a seamstress who altered some clothes for us using an old treadle machine.

Before we left for Bangkok, in the rain.... Rain in BaganOur last morning it rained in Bagan--flooding many roads.