On the final leg of our trip we spend three days at Estancia El Umbu de Areco in the Argentine pampas.  This is a colonial-style mansion and working ranch dating back to the 1800's.  With only 9 rooms, it is now a secluded tourist destination to ride and enjoy rural Argentina.   Estancia El Umbu de ArecoEstancia El Umbu de Areco in Argentina

Eva Boelcke's family has owned the Estancia since 1934.  She often stays at her house in town by comes to the Estancia several times a week.  It's easy to know when she is here…she arrives with her car loaded with the stray dogs she has adopted into her "city" family.  She brought about six the days we saw her.

Eva Boelcke and her family have owned the the Estancia since 1934.Eva Boelcke's family has owned the Estancia since 1934. She often stays at her house in town by comes to the Estancia several times a week. It's easy to know when she is here…she arrives with her car loaded with the stray dogs she has adopted into her "city" family. She brought about six the days we saw her.

We are seated immediately beneath the ancient Umbu tree and served empanadas and wine.  This tree dates from 1806.  Umbus are native to the pampas and have a large umbrella shape.  Gauchos could see them in the distance and would seek them out as shelter from the sun and rain. Umbu tree at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoThis Umbu tree dates from 1806.

Within an hour we are on horseback. First Trail Ride, Estancia El Umbu de ArecoEstancia in Argentina

Led by the 66 year old Oscar Periera, who comes from a San Antonio de Areco's legendary gaucho family, we ride into  the pampas. Oscar leading ride at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoOscar leading ride into the pampas at Estancia in Argentina

We arrive back at the Estancia in time for lunch.  This is a hearty meal of all-you-can eat and drink of their own grilled beef and sheep, vegetables and their own house wine.  They have their own organic garden and the meat is cooked slowly in an open fire pit.  The aroma at lunchtime is WOW. Grilling the meat at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoThis is how they slow cooked the meat for the meals. There was usually beef and lamb at each meal.

The first day we ate in the indoor lunch area.  After lunch we have a great surprise--Oscar joins us with his guitar. Oscar Eduardo Periera, gaucho at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoOscar serenades us during lunch at the Estancia in Argentina

He serendades us.  

We ride several times each day.  Just head for the stables--very unstructured.  Riding on the land is magical. Riding at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoRiding on the pampas at Estancia in Argentina

And we see some interesting birds...the burrowing owls sometimes line up on the fence posts.

Burrowing owl at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoBurrowing owl at Estancia in Argentina

And the fields are often filled with Campo Flickers that take flight as we approach. Campo Flickers on the pampas at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoLarge groups of Campo Flickers were on the pampas around the Estancia in Argentina

We also meet the flickers' near-relatives, the golden breasted woodpeckers. Golden Breasted woodpeckers at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoWe saw a whole flock of Golden Breasted woodpeckers on a morning ride at the Estancia in Argentina

Touring the old Estancia is fun...this old well was probably the water source for main house in the 1800's.  On all well at the Estancia El Umbu de ArecoThis old well was once a major water source for the house in the 1800's at the Estancia in Argentina

The old "parlor" is now a sitting/game room for guests.

Sitting room in the Estancia El Umbu de ArecoEstancia in Argentina

One day we had lunch on the outside veranda.

Lunch on the veranda, Estancia El Umbu de ArecoThe porch was a lovely lunch spot at the Estancia in Argentina

We also had lunch under the trees.  (Fortunately, dinner was a bit lighter or we would have left much heavier!) Our final outdoor lunch at the EstanciaOur final lunch is under the trees. We found many tourists come here for their midday meal and we can see why. Not only is the food superb, their local wine is lovely, we have a Gaucho serenade and gaucho-horse performance. Pretty tough to beat.

We found the estancia is a lunchtime tourist destination, so they make the midday meal quite a show.  Oscar always sings.

Oscar outside at lunch at the Estancia El Umbu de ArecoOscar serenading at the Estancia in Argentina

And everyday the gauchos perform with their horses.  These men spend their lives in the saddle.  They can pick out horses with specific compliant natures and train them to do amazing things.  

Gaucho show at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoGaucho and horse perform at linch -Estancia in Argentina

Gaucho-horse performance at the EstanciaGaucho serenade and gaucho-horse performance at lunch at the Estancia in Argentina

Our last night we are treated to a full moon... Moon over the Estancia El Umbu de ArecoA full moon at the Estancia in Argentina

And a hard-to-see Southern Cross--the upside down kite just above the tree. The Southern Cross at Estancia El Umbu de ArecoThe Southern Cross (Looking like an upside down kite) over a tree at the Estancia in Argentina Tomorrow we head back to the US and try to absorb all we've seen and done as we re-enter our everyday lives.